Y2K+22: Enamel’s back, baby, and it’s better than ever

Ross Simons Estate ring, C. 1970. Just one example of how enamel can make a piece. Nine brillant-cut diamonds are emphasized by dark blue enamel in 14kt yellow gold.

Mixing surprisingly well with regencycore (thanks, Bridgerton), the Y2K-era color trend has made for some unexpected but delightful pairings this season. Think vibrant, chunky rings and bright body chains paired with thick gold collar necklaces. That’s right: the aughts are in. We’ll let you guess which '00s will prevail – 1800 or 2000. 

Sculptural resins, acetate earrings, and enamel are out of the closet and in every look this year. And we are here for it: building on the breakout enamel trend from 2019, we’re seeing bright colors and big pieces that update classic shapes with a bright, contemporary twist. 

Enamel has been around for centuries: in fact, it may be one of the oldest forms of decorating jewelry. Crafters in the Persian empire developed the first enamel technique, then known as mīnākārī (meaning, roughly, to place paradise onto an object). Colored, powdered glass is carefully fused with metal, glass or ceramic with intense heat, which can reach over 1300 degrees Fahrenheit.

The material is notoriously challenging, and small changes in temperature during production can cause changes from durability to color. The result – a beautiful, durable, colorful glass-like coating – has been highly sought-after around the world ever since. (A version of the original Persian technique was carried to India and is practiced today as Kundan). 

More than just a glassy, colorful pop in an outfit, high-quality enamel is also surprisingly durable and easy to clean. Warm water, mild liquid soap and a soft cloth, appropriate storage and care will keep any piece alive and shining for generations. 

Looking to add a dash of color to your 2022 collections? Think enamel.